I am looking for some clarification on a couple of code sections & language in the Florida Statutes. Any assistance or guidance you can provide is greatly appreciated.


1. In the below section of the 2010 FBC-R, does the term “piping” also include metal ducts installed for kitchen microwave / hood exhaust? Section M1502.5 covers clothes dryer exhaust ducts. M1503 / 1504 does not contain this provision.



M1308.2 Protection against physical damage. In concealed locations where piping, other than cast-iron or galvanized steel, is installed through holes or notches in studs, joists, rafters or similar members less than 1.5 inches (38 mm) from the nearest edge of the member, the pipe shall be protected by shield plates. Protective shield plates shall be a minimum of 0.062-inch- thick (1.6 mm) steel, shall cover the area of the pipe where the member is notched or bored, and shall extend a minimum of 2 inches (51 mm) above sole plates and below top plates.









2. Is it the intent of this section to allow the exhaust duct to be terminate at the soffit to a louver, screen or grille in compliance with R303.5 OR would this practice still be considered exhausting into the soffit?



M1501.1 Outdoor discharge. The air removed by every mechanical exhaust system shall be discharged to the outdoors. Air shall not be exhausted into an attic, soffit, ridge vent or crawl space.





3. Section 489.103(7)(a) of the F.S. clearly states that owners of property can building or improve their property when meeting all the provisions of the exemption. However, under the Discloser Statement, line (4), the term “substantially” suddenly appears. Does this term change the intent of the section in any way & if so, what would be the definition of the term “substantially” in regard to this section of the F.S.?





489.103(7) Owners of property when acting as their own contractor and providing direct, onsite supervision themselves of all work not performed by licensed contractors:



(a) When building or improving farm outbuildings or one-family or two-family residences on such property for the occupancy or use of such owners and not offered for sale or lease, or building or improving commercial buildings, at a cost not to exceed $75,000, on such property for the occupancy or use of such owners and not offered for sale or lease. In an action brought under this part, proof of the sale or lease, or offering for sale or lease, of any such structure by the owner-builder within 1 year after completion of same creates a presumption that the construction was undertaken for purposes of sale or lease.







4. I understand that I may build or improve a one-family or two-family residence 4. or a farm outbuilding. I may also build or improve a commercial building if the costs do not exceed $75,000. The building or residence must be for my own use or occupancy. It may not be built or substantially improved for sale or lease. If a building or residence that I have built or substantially improved myself is sold or leased within 1 year after the construction is complete, the law will presume that I built or substantially improved it for sale or lease, which violates the exemption.





Thank you everybody. Have a nice day & take care,

Afternoon Bryan.
1. No. Piping is not the same as exhaust duct. (wiring is not the same as conduit.)
2. The exhaust duct must terminate in a louver or grill extending through the soffit. This is due to fumes and to moisture affecting the attic insulation R values.
3. Ask an attorney. Florida wants licensed contractors but acknowledges that owner/builders may obtain permits, etc. if it is their own residence or business and not being done for leasing or selling motives...for one year after the final approvals.
4. I have refused to issue a C/O on a house listed for sale until the owner/builder obtained licensed contractors to sign-onto the permits and obtain final inspection approvals in all categories.

Bryan,
On Q.1, they want dryer and hood exhaust ducts to be protected because a) a dryer duct cannot have any penetrations that would collect lint (thus not allowed to be screwed together) and b) a range hood carries grease vapors and a penetration could allow those vapors to escape and thus increase the potential for a grease fire to ignite the house. This is how it has been explained to me. By the way, a residential hood duct should be screwed together for strength since the screws will not hold the grease to any real extent...

ON the owner/builder thing, since they can build their own home, I don't know how "substantial" would play in this. Have to remember that unless the owner hires licensed subs, any work not done by him/her would have to be done by persons on his/her payroll with wc, ss and withholding being taken out.